ISEC: A Path Breaking Ecologist.

This is an interview I had taken during my sojourn at Ladakh. The edited version of this interview was published in the departmental newsletter, Resonance. It can be accessed at www.resonancethenewsletter.blogspot.com

Rahul and Alex are the coordinators of International Society for Ecology and Culture’s (ISEC) Ladakh Project. Since its inception in 1975, ISEC has been providing Ladakhi leaders with information about the impact of conventional development in other parts of the world while exploring more sustainable patterns of development in Ladakh itself, based on the use of local resources and indigenous knowledge.

Can you tell me about ISEC and the basic philosophy behind it?

Rahul: ISEC is a non-profit organization founded by Helena Norberg-Hodge, a Swedish and head quartered at Berkeley USA. We are concerned with promoting locally based alternatives to the global consumer culture. We are working towards strengthening local markets, cultures, technology and communities.

So, ISEC’s activities includes…

Alex: Our activities include ‘Hands-on’ community initiatives, publishing books, reports and conducting conferences. We are also into making and screening films. We are effectively doing local, national and international networking and campaigning too.

Rahul: We also have ‘Local Food Programme’ through which we have helped to set up farmers’ markets in Europe, North America and Australia and established the very successful ‘Food Links’ programme at the Soil Association in the UK. One of the by-products of the social and ecological crises we face is a sense of personal powerlessness. The problems seem too vast, the individual’s ability to influence things too small. So, ISEC came forward to re-empower people by a programme called ‘Roots of Change’.

Can you elaborate ‘Roots of Change’?

Alex: ‘Roots of Change’ links participants up with other like-minded individuals in their own communities and provides a ‘root cause’ analysis of today’s problems, so as to promote strategic and effective local action. The programme is based on a curriculum of guided study, and shows the way towards action that can solve a whole range of problems simultaneously rather than treating individual symptoms in isolation.

Can you brief the mission of ‘Ladakh Project’?

Alex: For centuries, the Himalayan region of Ladakh remained almost untouched by western consumer culture. However, recent exposure to the global economy has threatened to undermine its ecological and social well being. Our programme in Ladakh dates back to 1975. Working with thousands of local people in more than a hundred villages, we have helped to strengthen and rebuild both self reliance and self respect.

What all are the activities comes under the ‘Ladakh Project’?

Rahul: It is an ambitious project and one of the largest appropriate technology programmes in the world. We had set up the Women’s Alliance of Ladakh (WAL) in 1994 and Ladakh Ecological Development Group (LEDeG) in 1978. The latter is now an entirely independent organization. There are also Handicrafts cooperatives and seed-saving programmes. We also conduct Reality tours which bring community leaders to the West in order to balance the over-glamorized image of modern life. We had set up an educational and training centre for Ladakhi amchis or traditional doctors. We are publishing schoolbooks, plays and cultural works in the Ladakhi language.

Alex: We also run programmes for foreign visitors, aimed at challenging conventional thinking about development. Our Farm Project gives people from other parts of the world the opportunity to live and work with a Ladakhi family.

So, is WAL a part of ISEC? I thought it is a different entity.

Alex: No. In 1994, ISEC helped to establish the WAL, with the twin goals of raising the status of rural women and strengthening local culture and agriculture. Since then, its membership has swelled to over 6,000 women from almost 100 different villages.

What all are the WAL’s works?

Rahul: We conduct annual festivals celebrating local knowledge and skills, including traditional spinning, weaving and dyeing, and the preparation of indigenous food. We have regular ‘clean-up’ campaigns aimed at encouraging community responsibility for the environment. You know in 1998, WAL succeeded in banning the use of plastic bags in Ladakh. We also organize programmes like ‘No TV’ weeks aimed at resisting the worst elements of non-Ladakhi culture.

Alex: We also helped WAL to set up the Local Food Café in 2006 at the Women’s Alliance Centre, Leh with the idea of promoting local agriculture and the culinary culture of Ladakh. In 2001 a Handicrafts shop was set with twin objectives: to empower women by providing them with an opportunity to earn a cash income through the sale of handicrafts thereby boosting the rural economy and arresting the migration to towns. The second objective is to preserve traditional handicraft skills which will otherwise be lost in the face of imported substitutes.

That’s great. So, how far you have achieved your objectives?

Rahul: Since its inception, ISEC has successfully made partnership with more than 12 countries both developed and developing. Its directors constitute the Editorial Board of The Ecologist magazine, the UK’s most respected environmental journal. We have published many groundbreaking books and made informative films and screened it worldwide. Its director Helena Norberg-Hodge shared the 1986 Right Livelihood Award, otherwise known as the ‘Alternative Nobel Prize’. These all are the clear signs that our efforts are bearing fruit.

Thank you. You have given me such invaluable information and moreover, we really had a nice discussion.

Rahul: Thank you, Justin

Alex: Justin, you are welcome.

A Traveller’s Heart

A curious heart,

Sets out for new lands,

Scales the steepest peaks,

Sails through unknown seas.

A nomadic heart,

Wanders aimlessly,

Through wildest jungles,

Searching for an aim.

A brave heart,

Adventures are his shadows,

Challenges are his siblings,

Dangers are his imprints.

An exploratory heart,

Always open and alert,

Hunts for treasures of wisdom,

To seek the ultimate truth.

A lonely heart,

Never fears to be alone,

As he knows in all quests,

Death is his constant companion.

A wise heart,

Ultimately he will be,

With the knowledge reaped,

With the experience gained.

Scaena: A Manipulated Shitmug.

“Were you there during the forum inauguration ceremony?” Juby sir asked me while I was having dinner couple of days back. “Yes, I was there in a silent mode” I replied smiling. “Oh, I expected you on stage. What happened?” he enquired. “I didn’t want to be there” I said. He didn’t persist as if he understood something and left the mess hall telling bye to me.

Whatever I’m going to write is just to inform people like Juby sir and all my dear friends who keep on asking me why I’m not participating in any of these so called ‘forum activities’. Since I’m a citizen of a free, democratic country, I strongly believe that I have the right and freedom to express myself. I love and respect that freedom and also love to express my opinions and comments no matter who hears or reads. After reading it, if anyone gets hurt on legs, hands, head or especially heart, I don’t have the responsibility to give first-aid to them.

A Broken Friendship.

In June, I with a bunch of my good friends decided to take part in Polestar business journalism award function at Taj Connemara. The friends who came along with me were Arun, Kiran, Karam, Avinash and Swaminathan. We were all excited about the function and attended it with sheer enthusiasm. One of my friends and college mate, Shraddha was one among the event coordinators of the function. So, that was also a very good opportunity to meet one of my old friends. She was very happy and surprised in seeing me and we had a chit chat.

After the function, drinks were arranged at the counter. But that was only for the businessmen and journalists and not for students like us. But we decided to have a few drinks. “Who knows we are students?” we thought. I told my friends that we will just take few drinks, have dinner and push off. Everyone agreed and we started. That was a cheerful night. We exchanged jokes and it was really a fun. Everyone drunk except Arun.

While I was taking drinks and having a nice conversation with Swaminathan, Kiran and Arun, I didn’t notice two persons were taking drinks more than what their belly could bear. Karam and Avinash. I smelled the trouble when Karam went and talked to one of the prominent personalities of the function.

“We can go for dinner, Swami” I told Swaminathan. We pushed off to have dinner. While I could see Karam by my side, I couldn’t see Avinash, Kiran and Arun. I had the dinner faster. Suddenly I saw Avinash taking some unknown person to the counter, where we had drinks. I couldn’t make out anything until Arun came running up to me and told: “Justin, I couldn’t handle Avinash alone. You please have dinner soon and take care of him” I finished off the dinner and ran searching for Avinash.

Finally I found him near to the counter standing like a ghost in some Malayalam horror movies- their legs won’t touch the ground. “Macha, just two more drinks and I will wrap up” Avinash requested in broken English. “Avinash, the counter is closed and now we are pushing off” I told him very seriously. He pushed me and tried to enter the counter. But he fell down on floor and I took him up.

While taking him outside, he again fell down near to the help desk and all the receptionists and other people gathered all around us. One person was watching all these drunken drama from a nearby corridor. It was Shraddha. I saw her but she neither come near to me nor attempted to make a move.

After a bit struggle I bought him outside the hotel and started waiting for other friends come out after dinner. Avinash started calling Auto rickshaw drivers who were parked in front of the hotel gate. I gestured at the drivers that he is drunk. They smiled and left. “Stand steady, don’t make a scene” I told Avinash angrily. “Call Swami!” he shouted. “I will slap you, Avinash. Take my words, I will slap you!” I was getting to the edge of my patience. He tried to stand steady. But he couldn’t.

I don’t know what made him to do that. I don’t know what the motive is. After few moments, he spat on my face. I thought of hitting at his face at that very moment. But I controlled myself. It was really hard to do that especially for a person like me. Just for friendship sake, I put a tight grip on my ego and forgave him.

Arun entered the scene. “I need to piss and wash my face. You just take care of Avinash” I told Arun and went inside the hotel again. When I entered the hotel, a familiar face was standing near to the reception. It was Shraddha. “I didn’t expect you and your friends to have dinner from here” she expressed her anger on our ‘free-show’ there. “Our lecturer told the dinner is arranged here for students” I replied in deep humiliation. I knew very well what she meant: it was not dinner but alcoholic drinks that students were forbidden to take from there. Since alcohol was controlling my brain that night, I was not much embarrassed by her remarks. But when I think about it now, I feel so ashamed.

When I came back from the hotel, everyone was outside waiting for me and we decided to go to the bus stand. Swaminathan and I took Avinash to the bus stand. According to Swaminathan’s plan, we all should go to his brother’s house (I forgot the place’s name) and leave to our hostels next day morning. I Okayed the plan with a half heart. I was so uncomfortable with Avinash but I push myself and decided to go with them.

Unexpectedly, a share auto came along the way and stopped near to the bus stand. Arun and Kiran decided to go to the hostel in that share-auto. When they got in, I got some second thoughts in my mind and I asked Swaminathan whether he and Karam could manage Avinash. He said yes and I too got into the share-auto.

After few minutes Swaminathan, Karam and Avinash got into the same share-auto. “Macha, when you said that you are leaving to hostel, it really hurt me” Swaminathan said to me. “Why?” I asked “you told me that you and Karam can handle Avinash. Do you think, is there is any point this entire drunken bunch going to your brother’s house and making a mess around there?” “I promise there won’t be any mess. But, Justin, you are the class representative and you can’t shy away from responsibilities” Swaminathan commented.

That comment not only made me irritated but also angry. “Only reason I got into the auto that you said you and Karam can handle Avinash. If you needed any help, you could have asked me.” I told Swaminathan. “You are the class representative and I thought you have common sense to understand the situations. I didn’t expect this from you.” he replied depressingly. I stopped talking to Swaminathan as I knew there was no point in talking. That night, Swaminathan, Karam and Avinash got down in the half way.

As far as Avinash’s case is concerned, I had enough. I took him outside the hotel alone without any help by becoming a prey of ridicule in front of everyone on the way. I got humiliated by one of my good friends and my old classmate, Shraddha. He spat on my face, hurting my ego. I’m neither Jesus nor Mahatma Gandhi. I had nothing more to do and Swaminathan’s criticism doesn’t make any sense to me even today.

Next day, the first voice call hit my mobile was Avinash’s. He apologized for whatever happened last night. “Macha, I’m sorry for whatever happened yesterday. I want to meet you and I’m in Selaiyur Hall” he told over phone. I love to talk and get everything settled through talks. I rushed to Selaiyur Hall. While Avinash talked very friendly towards me, Swaminathan preferred to keep mum. I was waiting for him to talk, but he didn’t. I smiled at him, shook hands with him and told: “Let’s forget whatever happened”. He just gave me back a wry smile. I don’t think I have the responsibility to open the closed mouths which never wanted to open.

I was like him. But that time I was too small. Maybe 8 or 9 years old. I took everything to my heart and hold it as if I’m taking revenge against someone. I never talked to someone who hurt me or done petty things to me. Now, at the age of 23, I know very well to cope up with my emotions. No one can hurt me without my permission. That ‘taking straight to heart’ strategy neither helps anyone nor places anyone in the places they deserve.

What I did…

I joined the Communication course very late. But I got acquainted soon with all the classmates and all became good friends of mine within a short span of time. During early days, I really thought I’m getting back my lost college days which I had been missing for nearly one year owing to my arrears or backlog. I was really happy and got a feeling of belonging which too I was missing in myself. I became the class representative when Kamal, the previous class representative resigned. I didn’t have any intention to get into that post. I just took the initiative when no one came forward to take up that responsibility.

The biggest initiative from our batch was the departmental newsletter called Resonance (www.resonancethenewsletter.blogspot.com). The idea was Arun’s but I initiated it. With the help of all my classmates I brought out the first edition of our newsletter. Later we successfully published our second edition by the end of last academic year. All were enthusiastic and helpful.

More enthusiastic about newsletter was Remya Madam, the Head of the Department. I could, with the help of Remya madam; set up an ‘inauguration’ of Resonance and had easily positioned myself as the ‘Editor in Chief’. Instead of that I proposed to Remya Madam, an idea of changing the editorial team every month. So, everyone will get the benefit of getting their names published every month.

Honestly speaking, I love politics, manipulation, dominance and monopoly but to my mind, college is not an applicable arena for that. Street is the better place for that. College is just a place for friendship and fun. That is what I believe.

We had successfully organized the Christmas party last year. All were in high spirits those times. Those days were really very joyful. By the end of the last year we too organized well the farewell party for our seniors. That event too went well and everybody enjoyed and really had fun.

This year in the beginning, I have given idea to Sangeetha Madam to initiate a Discussion Club. Although, it didn’t work well because of my absence owing to the Great Tibetan Marathon and as soon as I came back everyone got busy with college auditions, PR campaign compounded with ‘forum activities’.

I didn’t propose for any post of Literary and Debate Secratery for the Discussion Club. Moderators will be changed every week thus giving chances for everyone to participate and develop their skills.

What they are doing…

The main problem with the Forum christened as Scaena is that nobody asked for it. There is no need for it either. Okay. If all the media departments-Journalism, Visual Communication and Mass Communication- joins hands, it would make some sense. For a department which contains only 65 students, what is the point in having a Forum? It is as if shooting a mosquito with an AK-47 machine-gun. I don’t think a forum is needed for organizing a Christmas party or a farewell party. I heard they are planning a bunch of events this year. The availability of time is also another question.

Last year when we had organized events, there was no Forum. We had only committees. These committees gave responsibilities not positions. While positions make students idle, responsibilities make them restlessly do what they assigned to do. Anyone can volunteer to do whatever they wanted to do. There was no compulsion. At the end, everyone was satisfied since everyone had done their parts.

The case with Scaena is entirely different. In reality, one day a bunch of people stood up and told that we need a Forum, took all the positions and settled comfortably. I wasn’t there during the initiation of it but heard a lot about the hues and cries happened in connection with it. It disrupted the unity among the classmates and also brought unwanted regionalism into our class.

When my name was suggested for the General Secretary post, Swaminathan publicly told, “I don’t think, Justin deserves the post”. Commenting on a person who is not in the scene is a bad habit. Anyway, I don’t have any problem with the comment he made. He told a truth indeed. I don’t deserve that post! I deserve something better, I deserve something good and I strongly believe that I deserve the best. Again my backlog of two theory papers was the only hindrance which made me ineligible for that position.

When I called Kiran from Tibet, he told about the initiation of a Forum in our department and I could get only an obscure image of what is going on in my class. He also added that since my name came up for the General Secretary post, there would be an election and the candidates would be Avinash and I. I said to him that let the election take place and face what happens. I was actually thrilled. But at the last moment, the forum became ‘official’ and owing to my backlog I couldn’t contest for the election. Eventually Avinash was elected unanimously.

I didn’t have any problem with that. When I came back after participating in the marathon, I was amazed to see that no one is in the class. Everyone was busy. At first I thought that all were planning to build an extra floor to the existing communication department building. Then I understood everyone was busy with the inauguration of Scaena and fresher’s party.

That’s good. I seriously doubt that the idea of creating a forum is evolved from the recent economic recession. Lot of jobless people are getting jobs nowadays because of it. I have also seen the forum letter pad which is the funniest letter pad I have ever seen in my life. Most of the space in the letter pad was given for the names and positions of the persons in the Forum and doesn’t have much space to put the content. That’s ridiculous.

Just few days before my departure to Tibet, we had a discussion for the plans and strategy for our Public Relations Campaign which will be kick started on August 12^th 2009. I didn’t see anyone of the ‘big shots’ of the forum actively participating or giving out any good ideas. Let me exclude this one instance. Where were they last year? I didn’t find anyone taking any initiatives or even taking part in any activities. From where they got the new ambitions and the power to take initiatives? Are they waiting for their close friend Pragadeeshwaran to join as a lecturer in our department?

When Avinash called me to request my help and support for the Scaena just few days back before the inauguration, I told him that you can expect any help from me other than for the forum because I know the real motive behind it. He didn’t ask me why because he knows it very well too. Moreover, I don’t want to waste my time and energy for any unwanted activities.

Forum is just a gimmick of an individual or a group of individuals who are seriously suffering from very low self esteem. I can see it only as a cheap attempt of some people to outsmart an individual or individuals whom they think smarter than them. That’s why I called Scaena, a manipulated shitmug.

I know very well what a shitmug is all about because all through my life I have seen and experienced lot of them. I had put my hands, legs and even head into some of them. I usually learn from my mistakes. So now, I have well determined that I won’t get into any shitmugs henceforth in my life. I will try my level best to avoid them too.

I’m a supporter of good initiatives comes from clear minds. Personally I don’t hold any grudges towards the persons whom I have mentioned in this write up. Anyone can be my friends-rich or poor, skilled or unskilled, weak or strong-but for enemies I put certain standards. My definition of an enemy is: “a person or group of persons who threatens my life or my loved ones’ lives”. As far as the persons whom I have mentioned don’t meet those requirements, they are none other than my friends.

Juley!

‘Juley’ means a lot in colloquial Ladakhi: ‘Hello!’, ‘Hi!’, ‘How are you?’ and much more. Everything from checking into a hotel room to going for a mountaineering expedition is as simple as ‘Juley’ there in Ladakh. It’s something more than a goodwill gesture. So, ‘Juley’ for you too!

The Voyage.

My journey towards Ladakh or ‘Little Tibet’ started on July 7^th evening. Since there was no direct train to Ladakh, I had to travel to New Delhi first. It was a 34 hour journey and I reached there on July 9^th morning. I stayed at my sister’s (my uncle’s daughter) house. That day I went for a sports wear shopping at Connaught place with my best friends, Jim and Rijo. I had to leave to Manali on the same day evening. So everything was in a fast pace. I rushed to the Inter State Bus Terminal (ISBT) after having tea with my sister and her kids.

On July 10^th morning, when I opened my eyes from sleep, the landscapes, altitude and climate had totally changed. I could see only snow capped mountains all around me. The Himachal Road Transport Cooperation (HRTC) bus I was travelling in was taking a loop through a mountain. After few moments, I started showing the first symptom of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS): dizziness. I braced myself to the seat and closed my eyes tightly. But I couldn’t escape from the vomiting sensation. Thankfully the bus operators were providing Air Sickness Bags (ASB) and I made a maximal use of them. One after another, I took the bags, puked into it and made a good collection of them under my seat. I’m proud in the fact that I was the person who used the maximum ASBs. I reached Manali on July 10^thnoon.

That was the end of my ‘pre-planned’ travel. There are three types of transport to reach Leh, the capital of Ladakh district of Jammu and Kashmir from Manali: Truck, Mini Bus, and Shared Jeep. Otherwise I need to opt for flight directly from New Delhi. Though my Ammachi (‘mom’ in Malayalam) recommended, travelling by air was not in my agenda since my objective was to see the places, people and enjoy the thrill of travelling. I had no idea about how to get there in Leh until I met Vijay, the owner of Hotel Shivalik where I stayed in Manali. He booked a minibus for me. Within minutes, the ticket to Leh was in my hands. As simple as ‘Juley’!

From all the information I gathered from internet, I learnt that Manali-Leh route is more scenic yet more rugged than the Srinagar-Leh route and it is the preferred choice of adventure travelers and photography enthusiasts. That is the main reason I chose the former route. The distance of the Manali-Leh route is approximately 490 kilometers which involves crossing five high altitude passes. Usually tourists take 1-3 days to cover this distance. While doing so they get more time to enjoy the scenic natural splendors and indulge in photography. Since I didn’t have much time to waste, I opted for the 19-21 hour journey in minibus which is popularly known as ‘cannon ball run’.

At 0230 hours on July 11^{th I started my journey to Leh in a minibus with some Koreans and Israelis in it. Except the driver, I was the only Indian traveler. Paved roads were only for few kilometers and after that the bus travelled through disarrayed roads consists of mud, rocks with lot of humps and dips. So, sleeping was literally a luxury in the bus and managed I did.}

When I got up from my sleep in the morning, the bus had already passed through the first high altitude pass, Rohtang La (13,050 ft and also known as heap of dead bodies!) and reached a place known as Kokhsar. I had tea and refreshments there and had a chit chat with the Israelis and Koreans. Koreans were teenage students and Israelis were professionals. I became more acquainted with Israelis than Koreans. The names of the Israelis were Jonan, Ronan and Konan. Were they siblings? No! “Are you guys born for same father?” I asked them jokingly and they all burst out into laughter. Two women were there with them and I forgot their names. One of the women was a journalist and when I said that I’m also specializing in journalism; we got more serious subjects into our chit chat. I also told them that I’m going to Ladakh just to participate in a marathon. All these information made both Israelis and Koreans interested in my talks.

Journey resumed. I passed through lot of beautiful places especially through scenic mountain valleys and river banks. I indulged mainly in photography. It was my past time activity during the travel. I was in high spirits and the world was new all around me. Everything was fine until I reached the second mountain pass, Baralacha La (16,500 ft) AMS started torturing me and I was slipped into the dizziness state again. I couldn’t talk and even smile. I started puking again. This time it was not in the ASBs but through the window of minibus. Koreans too started showing the AMS symptoms but Israelis were bit tough and went on with their talks and jokes.

Travelling with those both nationalities were like listening to a Hebrew radio on one side of my ear and a Korean radio on another. My poor Malayalam radio was helplessly searching for a frequency to broadcast. It was like a high altitude cultural exchange programme on wheels. I enjoyed it.

My condition became more severe after reaching Nakee La, (15,547 ft) I puked throughout that stretch and I became exhausted. That worst condition of mine urged me to ask Ronan to spare the front seat where he was sitting. He left his front seat for me with a smile and took the back seat where I was sitting. I’m really thankful to him for his kind help. I had my meals from the tents which were located on the way. Though I had been puking the food I was taking, I kept hydrating myself by having loads of water.

After crossing Lachulung La (16,616 ft) I had reached Pang. The road from Pang took me to the famous Moore Plains which is situated in a plateau. It’s hard to believe that this plain is situated at an altitude of 15,400 ft. The plain was really scenic too. The driver, who was a Ladakhi I guess, began to speed up the bus as the Moore Plains was flat and in good condition. But there were humps and also dips. However, he tackled it very smartly.

The journey through the Moore Plains reminded me of the Jeep Trekking me and Deepak, my college mate and best friend, did during our college days. He was a member of a Jeep Adventure club called Jeep Thrills and they have trekking events in the suburbs of Chennai during weekends. I was the usual companion of Deepak in most of his ‘Jeepy’ and ‘Biking’ adventures. I really cherished those memories and missed those joyful days.

After the fast paced journey through Moore Plains, I had reached the final mountain pass of our journey, Tanglang La (17582 ft). It is the second highest mountain pass in the world too. The bus stopped there for a while and I indulged in photography for some time. AMS started releasing its clutches from me. I was feeling really better. From that place the driver of the bus was replaced.

While descending from the Tanglang La, I was greeted with spectacular roads and natural sceneries. After descending I reached Upshi. The road from Upshi to Leh was good in condition. I was back in high spirits and started talking to the new driver in my broken Hindi. We really had a nice talk though I possess a very bad Hindi. The road leading to Leh reminded me of my homeland Kerala and I mentioned it to the driver too. I felt like as if I had finished an hours’ long roller-coaster ride. By 2030 hours on July 11^th I reached Leh.

I bid adieu to Israelis and Koreans after getting down the bus and taking my luggage. Lot of touts approached me with accommodation lists. I ignored them and checked into a hotel near to the bus stand. I knew that Leh is one of the safest places in India but I don’t want to invite any trouble since I was alone in an unknown land. I heard that lots of affordable guest houses were available in a place called Changspa and I thought of shifting to that place next day.

Sojourn at Little Tibet.

Next day, on July 12^th I shifted to Hotel Rockland located at Fort Road. The room I got was really spacious and so serene. I got a new friend called Mohammed Hussein, the hotel room boy. He was very friendly as most of the Ladakhis I found there. He used to bring my bed coffee in the morning and he also became my virtual guide.

First thing I did after getting settled in Hotel Rockland was to get a map of Leh town. I tried to get some newspapers but it was really hard to find them. Then I reported at Hotel Singge Palace where the Great Tibetan Marathon team was staying. For the first two days I didn’t venture much into any outdoor activities except for internet browsing and visiting the German Bakery. Internet browsing was really a luxury in this mountainous region. Net browsing charges were Rs. 90 per hour. I had read a lot about German Bakery before reaching Leh. I really liked the chocolate pan cake they make and it’s a peaceful place to unwind ourselves.

Most of the time I spent by reading The Warren Buffet Way by Robert.G. Hagstorm. There was no other past time activities I could find there. I didn’t take my Laptop, no network coverage for mobile phone and no other electronic equipments with me other than cameras. I enjoy reading that book. It was really informative and inspiring.

On the second day while having my favorite chocolate pan-cake at German bakery my eyes fell upon an advertisement glued to the wall. It was about a documentary screening happening in Women’s Alliance of Ladakh (WAL). I took down the address and went to WAL.

One of the most interesting features of Leh town is that we can simply walk to most of the places. There is no need for hiring a taxi or such. Bus services are only to nearby villages. I walked to the WAL and attended the documentary screening. The name of the documentary was ‘Economics of Happiness’ which describes the impact of globalization on local economy and trade. I also participated in the group discussion after the documentary screening. The discussion was really interactive and I had made my contributions to that discussion. It was a rare opportunity to talk to various nationals, express my opinions and ideas and also clarify my doubts regarding the globalization and development. All the people present there were very friendly and cheerful.

My visit to WAL, which was really set up by International Society for Ecology and Culture (ISEC) was a turning point. I got interested in their activities. Consequently I met Rahul a western educated Indian, one of the coordinators of ISEC’s Ladakh Project. I conveyed to him my interest in their activities and also requested him for an interview. He was ready for everything though his schedules were tight.

My intention was to get as much information from them about the all the ecology related issues as this year’s Public Relations (PR) campaign theme of our Communication batch is ecology related one. So, if I get the interview from him, I can publish it in our departmental newsletter too. Rahul agreed with me and introduced me to Alex, an American who is also a coordinator of ISEC. We had a really nice discussion and I took down notes from them.

Alex was very helpful like Rahul. He gave me lot of good documentaries on environmental issues and gave me an idea of doing a documentary screening during the PR Campaign. That was a great idea indeed. Then for few days I was like one of them, stayed in WAL from morning to evening, had food from WAL’s Local Food Café, browsed through the books in the library and interacted with most of the visitors of WAL.

Notable features of WAL were that they use only solar energy for all the energy needs, never uses plastic materials and also uses composting toilet to dispose human waste. It’s for the first time in my life I was coming across a composting toilet. I really admired their natural way of life. It also made me think how Western culture and Globalization have destructed lot of local economies and cultures.

From WAL’s Local Food Café, I had local foods such as Thukpa (vegetable soup), Mok-Mok and Chutagi. I got the real taste of Ladakh from there. Surprisingly most of the hotels I had visited didn’t have any Ladakhi menu. They serves you Israeli, German, Italian, Continental and Chinese foods but not Ladakhi. I went to Ladakh to taste Ladakhi and Tibetan food not German or Italian.

The unique characteristics I found in Ladakhis are that they are innocent and hardworking. They believe what they see or hear. They are not clever like most of us-urbanites. Don’t underestimate, they are very wise. They value their culture, traditions and relationships. When a Ladakhi starts talking, first he or she greets you with traditional ‘Juley’ and an innocent smile then only he or she starts talking. I really love smiling people.

But sadly, nowadays Westernization started creeping into their community. Badly hit are the Ladakhi youth. They are trying to emulate Westerners thinking that their local culture and lifestyle as inferior. Internet, TV, Mobile phones are all sabotaging that beautiful culture, economy and traditions. To my mind, if we are not content in our identity, culture, traditions and the place we took birth and making a living, there is no point in living at all. We are trying to become someone else. That’s a gradual death indeed. That’s ridiculous. In this juncture, the activities of ISEC and WAL in Ladakh are worth complimenting.

The places I had visited were Leh Palace, Tsemo Monastery, the Home for Helpless Donkeys, Ladakh Book Shop and Tibetan Refugee Market. Owing to my activities in WAL I didn’t get much time to roam around which I love most. I missed lot of important sites such as Shanti Stupa and rarely available ‘Chang’ the locally brewed barley beer.

Leh Palace is nothing other than a small palace ruined in most parts and it is under renovation now. I didn’t find any great crowd to see that architectural splendor which is built by just mud bricks! Most challenging part in visiting the Tsemo Monastery was that you need to climb up the small hill on which it is located. There is no stepping or loops to reach on top. So be careful when climbing. There is nothing to see other than some prayer halls and a Big Buddha statue. But after reaching on top you can get a great aerial view of Leh town and it’s a superb launch pad to shoot your camera. I climbed till top and got couple of great photos as a reward.

I found the Home for Helpless Donkeys after a walking struggle for 30 minutes. It’s a donkey sanctuary in real sense started by a South African called Joanne Lefson. I saw lot of ‘sweet’ donkeys there. I called them sweet because they are harmless and in turn we are doing harm to them. I talked to the care taker of the sanctuary, Sonam who was a retired soldier. “Why we Indians are not taking any initiatives like this? Most of the good and helpful enterprises here are started by foreigners. Are we sleeping?” I asked him in my broken Hindi. “Indians don’t have brains!” he commented. We, Indians have good brains but we are not using it. We are busy with trivial activities and don’t have time for innovation and initiatives. That’s my opinion. After taking some rest and making a small donation, I left the sanctuary bidding adieu to Sonam.

The only place which lured and got hold of me in Ladakh was the Ladakh Book Shop. I visited that Book Shop thrice. They have a wide range of books from Religion to Philosophy to Politics to Adventures. Endlessly I browsed through the books and on the third day of my visit I bought two books: Being Indian by Pavan K Varma and Jesus Lived in India by Hoger Kersten. I really admire that Book Shop.

You can find lot of Tibetan Refugee Markets in Leh. My advice is that if you are going to buy any gifts for your loved ones buy it from local markets. If you do so, the money will be circulated in the local economy and you are supporting the local people in real sense. If you buy, eat or stay in any expensive or ‘high class’ places the money will either go to New Delhi or other parts of the globe. This is the scenario I witnessed there in Ladakh.

I did most of my shopping in local markets. I bought a Tibetan bag for my brother and a wedding gift for Jim and Tina, my best friends whom are going to get married in coming October. I didn’t ‘buy’ anything for my Ammachi, the person whom I love most in this world. I ‘acquired’ something precious for her from my visit to Ladakh: the medal I got for the successful completion of the Great Tibetan Marathon. That is my gift to her.

Bidding Adieu.

After successfully completing the Great Tibetan Marathon on July 18^th, I took rest on 19^th. The minibus to Manali starts at 0200 hours on 20^th. I told good bye and hugged Mohammed Hussein and Firoz Bhaiya, the owner of Hotel Rockland. “Inshallah” Firoz Bhaiya told me. The real problem in being an atheist is that when someone gives “Inshallah”, “God Bless You” or any other ‘Godly’ wishes, you can’t give anything back to them other than a wry smile.

The return journey was not as eventful as the onward journey. I was bit tired after the adventure marathon. I got a fresh lease of life only after reaching New Delhi on 22^nd and meeting up with my sister and her kids Eviya and Appu. The same day afternoon me and Jim met and talked over couple of beers. It was such a joy to show to people who are close to me the GTM medal and certificate. Jim got inspired by my experiences too. I left to Chennai on 22^nd night.

To conclude, I need to give a simple advice to some of my friends who are very eager to visit foreign countries. I appreciate their ambitions but it will be good to keep in mind that our country, one of the greatest in the world has mind blowing places to visit, explore and learn. First tour, explore and learn from our mother country before embarking on an expensive foreign tour. I’m giving out this advice only because I’m really feeling ashamed, when I see some foreigners comes here and explores something right under our nose which we had never noticed nor even tried to explore. Isn’t that humiliating?